We all dream about being in the ocean right now. Our minds go crazy while imagining
ourselves performing that maneuver, surfing that wave, getting that barrel…
We “console” ourselves creating new ways and trying to simulate that feeling. We stand in
front of a T.V with the image of a barrel and we hold the position, over the sofa, over a fitball,
under a carpet… We use whatever we have, we make a mess in our own place, just to get
that wave, just to simulate that feeling.
We are incredibly creative. We do whatever it takes to make it. Hell yes, we keep our stoke
alive. Because like every single surfer in the world right now, we want to be back in the
lineup as soon as possible.
But we are lucky to be surfers. Even now as we are pulling our hair out going stir crazy, every move we make, and every object in our house becomes a wave simulator.
Because, while having fun riding all those waves with friends, while going on surf trips, while
getting all those shots of stoke and adrenaline… Yes, while surfing, we have learned some really valuable lessons we should be proud of.
Some things we can use now, during this time that we are not allowed to ride all those
waves. You are a surfer, take advantage of yourself. Use that wisdom.
“Use your patience”
Yes, we all have that, even the less optimistic among us. We all have waited for that “last
wave”, for another set to come, for another “good one” to ride. We all have developed a certain sense of patience, even during those never ending flat weeks, when every single
beach around was completely flat.
“Keep moving”
We never get tired of that feeling. Our bodies get tired of three heavy sessions a day. But at
the end, everything is worth it with our big smiles and our favorite excuse, “but waves were
firing”.
We never get tired, instead, we get addicted and we do whatever it takes to take one more.
We do whatever it takes to perform that maneuver. We try the same on a skateboard, we jump on the ground simulating an air, we pretty much mind surf all day long. Even if we don ́t realize, we are used to training our body out of the water with that goal, “surfing focused”.
“So keep moving now, because you will use that in your next session”.
“Keep calm under water”
Getting smashed by that wave, taking the whole set on your head…At a certain point, we ́ve
all needed to learn how to stay calm under water, how to manage all that turbulence to be
able to take some breaths again.
Now, the whole world is going through some turbulence. We can ́t surf, but we can take advantage of who we are and use this wisdom now.
It is time to reflect, to learn to not take anything or anyone for granted. It is time to say “thank you, surfing”.
Hold your position, keep the stoke alive and soon we will be back. As Gerry Lopez says, “if we keep paddling, we will get back to where we were”.
A message always good to remember.